The Napa Valley
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The first thing many people notice about wine country dining is the freshness of every ingredient. And why not, with the world's breadbasket of fruits and veggies on one side and an ocean on the other? With this base from which to choose, it would be a tragedy if the food was not terrific. Fortunately, you won't dine much better or with much more consistency anywhere, and most of the Napa restaurants (unless ethnic) prepare their food in the California style.
As to ethnic dining, you won't find much in the way of ethnic restaurants (a few good ones here and there - mostly Italian), but that is because the chefs here are understandably creating dishes that accompany some of the finest wine in the world.
A word about the wine. It is quite routine for even average restaurants and sandwich shops to have great selections of wine, so it would be monotonous for us to praise the wine list in each review. What we will do is mention the wine service in those restaurants that are extraordinary (on the positive or negative side).
One further tip. You will be visiting wineries all day and will often want to drink a bottle that you purchased. No problem in Napa Valley - the restaurants expect it. Most do charge a fair corkage fee, however, so you should expect it. We always think that if you dine with more than two (and sometimes just a couple), if you bring a bottle, buy a bottle.
And a last hint. If you dine in Calistoga, which is the warmest part of the Valley anyway, the area near the windows on the south side of Lincoln Avenue can be quite warm and bright while the sun is setting in the summer. Fair warning. Don't stay away from the restaurant, just ask for a cooler table.
ALL SEASONS
1400 Lincoln Ave.
Calistoga
942-9111
Mostly frequented by locals, the real treat here is not so much the food, which is good but not stellar, but the unique wine store in the back of the restaurant. The wine shop, not surprisingly, carries a fine selection of Napa and Sonoma wines, but it is the only place in the Valley (to our knowledge) that stocks fine Italian AND French wines (Bordeaux and Burgundy especially). As you dine, you have a choice of drinking from the wine list or from the store, and if you choose the latter, a reasonable corkage fee will be added on. The fine wines here are a nice accompaniment to hearty American dishes.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B+
ANGELE
540 Main St.
Napa
252-8115
A French bistro on the banks of the Napa River, the combination of affable staff, solid California/French dishes, and a pretty setting serve to make Angele a popular stop. We enjoyed the food here, but the ambiance and lively atmosphere are the selling points. Know what's really great here? The good ole American burger, and sometimes that's the perfect food after a day of visiting wineries.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B+
AUBERGE DU SOLEIL
180 Rutherford Hill Rd.
Rutherford
963-1211
For elegant dining plus a view, no restaurant in the Valley compares to Auberge Du Soleil, located at the top of a hill off Silverado Trail. We recommend taking some time for either lunch or dinner and relaxing on the porch surrounding the dining room, or even in the bar. Both areas provide top shelf cocktails, great wines, and stunning panoramas.
But the view is terrific from the restaurant too, as is the wonderful California cuisine served up by Chef Richard Reddington, who improves the experience each time we go. The menu is set up to be a tasting menu, but the restaurant allows you to also dine a la carte. That is appreciated. A bonus - wonderful wine list. It isn't surprising that Auberge is the choice of many of the vintners in the Valley when they want to experience a special evening.
Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: A
BISTRO DON GIOVANNI
4110 St. Helena Highway
Napa
224-3300
You want crowded and noisy to go along with good food? This is your place. Freshness is the watchword here - we love the sauces and fish, as well as dishes like pasta with lamb, artichokes, and roasted tomatoes; and the duck breast served on risotto with apples and chipoline onions. Much of the menu, including terrific veggies, is grilled on mesquite, a process that imparts some nice flavors that compliment the natural fragrances. It's a pleasure to have an almost rustic, Tuscan style dining room in the Valley. Giovanni's is not the best food in Napa, as some claim, but it rates highly.
Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: A-
BISTRO JEANTY
6510 Washington St.
Yountville
944-0103
If there is a more popular neighborhood type bistro in the Napa area, we don't know about it. Famed chef Philippe Jeanty, who developed his unique style in France and then at Chandon in the Valley, decided in 1997 to create a bistro where he could recreate all those favorite foods of his childhood. The doors of Bistro Jeanty opened in April of 1998.
Not one of our favorite restaurants in its early days (we felt the service was average, the menu limited, and the wine list poor), Jeanty has advanced in leaps and bounds to become both trendy and a gastronomic winner. The wine list now features a diverse selection of outstanding examples of France, Napa, and Sonoma, and the food (with a nicely expanded menu) remains eclectic and tasty. You may wish to try the beet and mache salad with feta cheese; the duck and goat cheese pate; rabbit pate with mustard celery root; lamb tongue and potato salad; sole meuniere; Coq au Vin (chicken, mushroom, and bacon red wine stew); beef stew; various cassoulets; duck confit; and steak tartare.
Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: A-
BOMBAY BISTRO
1106 First St.
Napa
253-9375
Perhaps the only Indian restaurant in Napa, Bombay Bistro prepares meals in a light style without losing the magical flavors of the Indian spices and herbs. If you are not familiar with Indian restaurants, they offer much more than simple curries. Here, for example, the grilled meats and fish (called Tandoori) are spiced perfectly, and the cool yogurt or cream based sauces surround meats or vegetables and bring out its flavor. The owners have invested in a nice wine store right next door, so choose from the menu or the store (if the latter, a fair corkage charge is added to the bill).
Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: B
BOUCHON
6534 Washington St.
Yountville
944-8037
This is a fun French bistro. In fact, though Bouchon means "cork" in French, it is also a term in France meaning bistro. The striking bar, attractive room, fresh raw seafood, well conceived wine list, and late hours all combine to make Bouchon enormously popular with those in the wine industry, as well as diners in the know. It's a place to meet people after 10:00 p.m.. We think the food is fine - quite simple as a Bouchon should be - but nicely prepared with lots of options.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: A-
BRANNAN'S
1374 Lincoln Ave.
Calistoga
942-2233
After some changes in the kitchen, this beautifully restored restaurant with open windows and wall murals created by acclaimed trompe l'oeil artist Carlo Marchiori (a local), should become as hot as it was when it opened in 1998. New chef Allen Routt, a Culinary Institute of America graduate, can flat out create and prepare extraordinary dishes. Some of what we tasted is not on the menu nightly, but will be included in specials. The oyster ravioli in champagne sauce was the perfect start, and nicely preceded a rare and moist oak plank salmon. For a primary entree we were served a truly unique rabbit still on the rib. What a find that was. Chef Routt just has "the touch." The bar at Brannan's makes a mean martini, and is understandably one of the most popular meeting places in Calistoga.
Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A
BRIX
7377 St. Helena Hwy.
Yountville
944-2749
One of our favorite places - we have yet to have anything but excellent and professional service, as well as some of the best prepared food anywhere. And this is so even though there have been more changes in the kitchen than one usually finds in better dining establishments. You might describe the cuisine at Brix as seasonal California. The restaurant attempts to use local produce, and adjacent to the restaurant is a seasonal garden planted with herbs and vegetables that enhance the menu.
The ultimate experience here is due in great part to the management, and a good time is enhanced by the jovial staff who will make sure you order the right amount of the night's best dishes. Trust them, but do order the ever so lightly fried calamari, some of the best anywhere, and consider the beef skewers with peanutty peanut sauce; the Ahi on crispy wonton; the pan roasted snapper with a lobster sauce; and rack of lamb with fried artichokes, baby squash, and whole grain mustard jus.
The wine list is one of the best, and there is a wine store here where you can choose your libation if you desire for a fair corkage charge. We do like it here.
Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A+
BUSTER'S BBQ
Intersection of Lincoln & Rt. 29
Calistoga
942-5605
We don't think anyplace in the country can outdo the quality and taste of Buster's BBQ. Hidden in a shack just off the main road, with seating at picnic tables, Buster prepares his meats and ribs on a huge grill outside, and serves you from a window in the building. You will select either a sandwich or a dinner made from Tritip (a popular beef cut in the West), pork loin, or ribs, with sides of slaw and baked beans. Be careful that you taste the hot sauce before allowing it to touch your tongue. For two of us we usually split a sandwich and a slab of ribs. It's enough, and it's a treat.
Food Rating: A+ Overall Rating: B+
BUTTER CREAM BAKERY & CAFE
2297 Jefferson St.
Napa
255-6700
This little place with (if you can imagine in 2003) pink and white stripes is reminiscent of an old time bakery and soda counter (they still have pink stools). Breakfasts and lunches are traditional, but the real reason to stop here is the huge selection of fresh baked goods and pastries, and the smiles from behind the counter.
Food Rating: B
Baked Goods & Pastries Rating: A+
Overall Rating: A
CELADON
500 Main St.
Napa
254-9690
Celadon, owned by Chef Greg Cole, was the first fine dining restaurant in the recently revitalized city of Napa. It has grown in scope and moved to a location more befitting its grace and style (the historic Napa Mill), but it remains a popular stop for tourists and locals alike. Chef Greg is fond of referring to his cuisine here as "global comfort food," and the seasonally changing menu features the flavors of the Mediterranean, Asia and the Americas. The Algerian style braised lamb is a wow. The wine list has received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence annually since 1997.
Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: B+
CHANDON
1 California Dr.
Yountville
944-2892
The "Granddaddy" of fine Napa dining, this elegant restaurant (Chandon is the dining room at Domaine Chandon winery) has always served good food, though it has had more than its share of turnovers. Fortunately there now seems to be a working match between the restaurant and Chef Eric Torralba, who since his arrival has worked to build kitchen camaraderie through the European tradition of dining together during staff meals, and has begun infusing his global culinary experience into the refined dining room setting.
By coincidence, we dined at Chandon the week Chef Eric arrived, and we can recall his deceleration that Chadon was through with goat cheese for a while because everyone else used it. That's why we found his quote on the Domaine Chandon website to be interesting. "Focus," he said, "on using the products around you and use common sense. Don't necessarily follow trends."
We had a marvelous dinner the evening we visited, choosing the seven course tasting menu. However, you may dine a la carte as well. Appetizers got us in the right mood when we tasted the olive oil braised artichokes and the exceptional lobster risotto with vanilla infused sweet corn reduction. The six oysters "five ways" were intriguing. Stellar entrees included the turbot with sweet corn risotto and coral butter; roast squab with seared foie gras; basil crusted lamb loin; osso bucco pappardelle with pinot noir essence; and fillet of John Dory with basil gnocchi and clam sauce.
Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A
CINDY'S BACK STREET KITCHEN
1327 Railroad Ave.
St. Helena
963-1200
After a rocky start as Miramonte (a surprise to all with the owner being chef Cindy Pawlcyn), Cindy's PR team must have been smart enough to not only revamp the restaurant, but it's name as well. Thus, Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen was born and seems to be doing quite well, though the service is still a little suspect.
Located in a 150 year old building on Railroad Ave., the charm is certainly there, and, let's face it, Cindy knows how to cook. The menu is now mostly regional cuisine with just a few southwestern touches, and maybe a splash or two of Asian influences. Our flatbread with cheese, smoked heirloom tomatoes, roasted corn, and basil was superb, as were the Chipotle rubbed quail with balsamic jus, the roasted artichoke with lemon-caper aioli, and the duck burger with shiitake mushroom ketchup. Other very enticing menu selections include chicken with relleno, corn and salsa; wild mushroom tamales with grits and chard; short ribs; and curried chicken with sugar snaps, butter lettuce, and crispy bacon.
Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: B+
COLE'S CHOP HOUSE
1122 Main St.
Napa
224-6328
Napa Valley is without many of the fine dining chain restaurants you find in other areas of dining renown. To this we say "Hurrrah," as the absence of these giants allows independent chefs to practice their trade. With this in mind, Greg Cole ambitiously opened the Valley's only restaurant devoted to steaks and chops (this does not imply many other restaurants cannot prepare superb steaks - they can and do). The restaurant itself is spacious and stunning in design, and it's hard to secure a reservation on the patio as well. As with most steak houses today, everything here is a la carte, and that makes your meal relatively expensive. Add a good, but also expensive, wine list, and an evening here can cost some money. But the prices are fair for this type food, for a nice wine inventory, and for friendly service.
Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: A-
COMPADRES GRILL
6539 Washington St.
Yountville
944-0103
Even in wine country, sometimes you want something other than wine. Well, if your choice is a margarita and very good Mexican food, many locals will tell you that the best one around is served here at Compadres. Atmosphere here is lively. Food is good. Prices are gentle.
Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: B
CUCINA A LA CARTE
6525 Washington St.
Yountville
944-1600
Open a little over a year as of this writing, almost all great western cuisines are represented over a period of time (in fact, the Chef may want to concentrate a bit more in one area). Most every dish, from bread to pasta, is made in house, yet the food lacks a certain ambition. Also, we aren't fond of dining on paper plates with regular flatware (a strange combination). Cheese selections are good, but the wine list is a bit short.
Food Rating: B- Overall Rating: C+
CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA
(sometimes referred to as Wine Spectator Greystone CIA)
2555 Main St.
St. Helena
967-1010
It may be a good thing that some people stay away from the CIA thinking it is only a training school for chefs. The restaurant is crowded enough. In reality, though, the training area is separate from the superb dining room, which easily ranks in the Valley's top 10.
Housed in the former Christian Brothers Winery,the CIA includes museums, gift shops, exhibits, culinary conference and teaching areas, and a new and exciting wine study building. Yet the restaurant is not overshadowed at all. The restaurant creates some of most innovative classic California dishes in America, and the wine list is arguably the finest in Napa. In fact, the Institute has a program where second generation winemakers are bottling special wine under their wineries names to raise money. These wines can be purchased and enjoyed at dinner for ridiculously low prices. The cavernous dining room (which is a bit loud - it's in an old stone building after all) surrounds numerous chefs preparing various dishes, each of which will challenge your palate. The servers are uniformly knowledgeable, friendly, and efficient. What more can you want? This is a real wine country experience.
Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A+
DEAN & DELUCA MARKET
607 S. St. Helena Hwy.
St. Helena
967-9980
Not a place to sit for a meal, but deserving of inclusion here because buying lunch to enjoy outside at a winery is an almost inescapable pastime in the Valley. At D & D you can find whatever you want, from pre-prepared meats to an incredible selection of cheeses and sandwiches, and from gourmet desserts to perhaps the largest selection of California wine anywhere. This store has produce, food products and cookware. Even if you aren't buying, you should still browse through the store and taste all the samples. Someday they'll get you back. A one of a kind place.
Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A+
DOMAINE CHANDON (see Chandon)
DON GIOVANNI (see Bistro Don Giovanni)
FOOTHILL CAFE
2766 Old Sonoma Rd.
Napa
252-6178
This is a small room (seats about 40) that is not well known at all - well, it wasn't until some big city reviews. Now it is a popular place with locals (including some wine industry people), and becoming more sought out by visitors. Truth be told, the food is pretty good (not great) and the service is average (nice but not special), but a well conceived wine list and whimsical ambiances added to the cool clientele elevates the overall experience. Comfort food, especially steak, pasta, and garlic mashed potatoes is the watchword.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B+
FLATIRON GRILL
1440 Lincoln Ave.
Calistoga
942-1220
When you want to be ultra casual, yet would like some fine wine and food, there aren't many places you can visit in Calistoga. But Calistoga will remind you of an old cowboy town, and people are more casual there than in the rest of the Valley. It's also hotter there (see Introduction). The newest restaurant earning kudos is Flatiron, an attractive dining room and bar that serves what can only be called comfort food. But they do it very well, and thoughtfully offer what might be our favorite wine list, and a global beer list. In fact, service is fine all around.
Just a glance at the menu tells you what you are in for, except it doesn't speak to the uniformly outstanding preparation. The appetizers include fried calamari, simple salads, sauteed mussels, and onion rings. Entrees can be selected from steak, prime rib, brisket, grilled chicken, seafood pasta, etc. The sides are pure childhood home: French fries, mac & cheese, garlic mashed potatoes, sauteed mushroom and onions, or potatoes gratin. A fun evening of memories can be had at Flatiron (a root beer float for dessert?).
Food Rating: A Overall Rating: B+
FRENCH LAUNDRY (Temporarily Closed, 2004)
6640 Washington St.
Yountville
944-2380
To most, this is Napa Valley's most famous, and penultimate, restaurant. It certainly is the most expensive, the most difficult place to get a reservation, the home of the world's highest (and, ridiculous) corkage charge, and the seat of pretentious service. This is not to say that the flair of Chef Thomas Keller is not wonderful, or that the food is less than stratospheric in its excellence. But for us, there has to be more than food. You have to feel not only as if the restaurant owners want you and the servers care you are there, but also you want to leave thinking the entire dining experience was "worth it." If the price is too high, the corkage charge unreasonable, and the reservation policy a pain, it's hard to feel satisfied no matter the brilliance of the dishes.
Make no mistake. French Laundry has won almost every award or rave in the world. And the food merits those accolades. So if that's what you want, by all means don't miss the chance (if you can get in).
Food Rating: A+ Overall Rating: B+
FUME BISTRO
4050 Byway East
Napa
257-1999
Fume Bistro, warm and inviting, has become a local favorite in just a short time. Cocktails are good, the carefully chosen wine list is price friendly, and the servers are people friendly. If you are in the mood for pizzas, there is a wood fired oven. If you want appetizers, choose from one of a number, such as duck confit, spring rolls, crab cakes, roasted mussels or crispy calamari Salads are good, and soups (especially the potato leek) are terrific. Entrees include excellent Kobe beef, lamb, fresh seafood, chicken, and pasta. Save room for the exceptional homemade desserts, primarily the creme brulee and the lemon-blueberry bread pudding.
Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: A-
GREEN VALLEY CAFE
1310 Main St.
St. Helena
963-7088
It always surprises us as to how many locals are not familiar with this Northern Italian trattoria, even though it is in the middle of Main Street in trendy St. Helena. People just walk right by. And if the locals don't know about it, think about the tourists. Well, the lasagna's out of the bag, so here we go.
What you will primarily find in this unobtrusive small room is superb Italian cuisine - the best in Napa Valley. Yes, the clientele mostly know each other, and the servers are friendly, but the food's the thing. Don't miss the calamari, and check the blackboard for specials. For a real treat, have a steak (no kidding) surrounded by pasta and meat sauce, but whatever you have will raise your spirits, and you'll raise yours to the chef.
Food Rating: A+ Overall Rating: A
HURLEY'S
6518 Washington St.
Yountville
944-2345
Hurley's benefits from the local popularity of its owner, plus the location (location, location). The restaurant is in the middle of late night Yountville where the two main streets connect, and serves a regional menu for dinner, as well as a late night bar menu. Stunning glass doors open to the patio from the bar, and the dining room is bathed in warm colors. Neither the menu, itself, nor the wine list, are overly exciting, but the menu does have something for everyone - steak, seafood, and sometimes game (usually a fowl). Service is certainly fun and friendly.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B+
HYDRO BAR & GRILL
1403 Lincoln Ave.
Calistoga
942-9777
Hydro, which is really a bar with food, has one distinction that puts it on our list. We believe it is the only place in the Valley north of Yountville to find a hearty selection of food after 11:00 p.m. There is nothing remarkable about the decor (brick walls and hardwood floor) or the food. But it's there and can satisfy a yen.
Food Rating: C Overall Rating: B-
JULIA'S KITCHEN
COPIA
500 First St.
Napa
265-5700
We included Julia's because Sallys-Place is a comprehensive review site. However, there have been so many changes, and there are so many varied opinions about this restaurant, that any grade would be misleading. It is worthy of note that it was selected Restaurant of the Year in 2002 by Esquire Magazine, but at present that rating would seem high.
LA LUNA MARKET
1153 Rutherford Rd.
Rutherford
963-3211
You can't eat inside, but there is no place to find more authentic Mexican ingredients in the Valley, nor are you ever likely to experience anything quite like the burritos served at the food counter in the back of the store. If we told you that they weigh a pound or more, we are not exaggerating, and you choose the meats, beans, and spices that are included. One burrito feeds three, and it's worth a stop here at least one time per trip to fill up for a lunch picnic. Have some Tums handy, and don't plan dinner for that night.
Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A
LA TOQUE
1140 Rutherford Rd.
Rutherford
963-9770
One of the places we go out of our way to recommend is La Toque. Chef/owner Ken Frank and elegant front of the house manager Julia Wilson are always on hand to be certain that the diner's experience is a memorable one, and they almost always succeed. From the moment you are greeted by Julia with a glass of champagne, to the presentation of desserts somewhere between two and four hours later (dependent on the numbers dining, your drinking preferences, and your desire to relax), you feel as if you are royalty. We think this is Napa's number one dining experience. From service to food to wine to ambiance, all is perfect.
La Toque features a prix fix menu that changes weekly. You may select your wine from an extensive list, or decide to have the pairings of the evening. Either way, and no matter how well you know wine, we suggest you consult, and have a discussion with, sommelier Scott Tracy - we always do (and frequently learn something).
Perusing a menu is a fitting end of the review (you would choose one from each course):
Duffy's Early Girl Tomato Soup served Chilled with "Brunoise" of Panzanella
Diced Montauk Bluefin Tuna with Yukon Gold Potatoes and Sauce Verte
__________
New England Spotted Skate Wing with Zante Currants and Brown Butter
Olive Oil Poached Pacific Halibut with Marjoram and Manila Clams
__________
Seared Artisan Foie Gras with Fresh Corn Polenta and Chanterelles
Roasted Oregon Quail with Port and Green Peppercorns
__________
Wild Atlantic Striped Bass with Lobster Cabernet Sauce
Niman Ranch Rib Roast with it's own "Hachis Parmentier"
Pappardelle with Garlic Roasted Rocky Mountain Porcini
__________
Selection of Ripe Cheese with Walnut Bread
__________
Sauteed Hamada Farms Peaches with an Almond "Twinkle"
Warm Chocolate Hazelnut Tart with Toasted Hazelnut Ice Cream
Food Rating: A+ Overall Rating: A+
MARKET
1347 Main St.
St. Helena
963-3799
Market capitalizes on the trend toward comfort foods. To that end they offer dishes like meat loaf, fried chicken, etc., in a semi upscale setting. The food is "OK," the wine list not as good as it should be, and the service needs some work. If you are staying in St. Helena, this is a nice stop, but not worth a special trip.
MARTINI HOUSE
1245 Spring St.
St. Helena
963-2233
This is one of the hottest places in Napa, and a place to be seen. Restaurateur Pat Kuleto and Executive Chef Todd Humphries have created a sophisticated restaurant offering "the whole package." Ambiance? Fireplaces in three rooms compliment the dark woods in the semi formal main dining, there are light fixtures evocative of woven Indian baskets and acorns, and an open staircase descends into the casual Wine Cellar bar. If you prefer outside dining, enjoy the lawn where you will dine beneath vine-covered arbors and trellises. Service? As professional as any in Napa. Food? If Chef Humphries is involved, it's good. Here he has created a "Napa Cuisine" menu incorporating local produce and foods, including farm-raised meats and wild game.
An example of a few dishes will bring home the excellence. You might enjoy the sauteed foie gras with a golden raisin sauce; olive oil marinated Monterey Bay anchovies; roasted Sonoma duck breast with cherries in a hibiscus sauce; sauteed day boat sea scallops with saffron gnocchi, sauteed chanterelles and summer truffle sauce; pan roasted wild striped bass; and chilled poached ruby red prawns with ginger salad of organic melon and sea beans with lime vinaigrette. Ask for a wine recommendation by the glass, or from an extraordinary list.
Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: A
MIRAMONTE (see Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen)
MUSTARDS GRILL
7399 St. Helena Hwy.
Yountville
944-2424
Long a Napa Valley tradition among locals, celebrity chef Cindy Pawlcyn continues to turn out well prepared fresh fish, lamb, and pork. Visitors now are a major part of the clientele. We have never been as enamored with Mustards as are many writers, and it may be because we became regulars in the Valley long after the restaurant's reputation had been earned. We were, therefore, able to more dispassionately give an opinion. Mustards is good, but there are many better.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B
NEST CAFE
7787 St. Helena Hwy.
Oakville
944-0206
Apparently designed to compete with Oakville Grocery, Nest has a long way to go. You can dine on premises here, but you still have to order at a counter and then get your own utensils. The dining areas are unattractive and hot. Add that to an only fair wine selection (no excuse in Napa) and average food, and you have an average business.
Food Rating: C+ Overall Rating: C-
OAKVILLE GROCERY
7856 St. Helena Hwy.
Oakville
944-8802
The King of all sandwich and gourmet food shops. You don't eat here, but order gourmet sandwiches (hot and cold) of every kind. "The Grocery," as it is known, is always crowded, yet turns out orders quite quickly. The place is a "happening" in and of itself, and the food is superb. A nice wine selection is on premises.
Food Rating: A+ Overall Rating: A+
PALISADES MARKET
1506 Lincoln Ave.
Calistoga
942-9549
We are always thankful for this outstanding gourmet food, wine, sandwich, and specialty shop located in the northern part of the Valley. It's hard to find a quick meal of quality in Calistoga, but Palisades always comes through. Don't let the unassuming building deter you. While you wait for your order inside, peruse the olive oils, bakery goods, cheeses, chutneys, and salads. A great place.
Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A
PERE JEANTY
6725 Washington St.
Yountville
945-1000
The newest restaurant of famed Philippe Jeanty, this charming establishment can be found just a few blocks from Bistro Jeanty in Yountville. Pere Jeanty is a beautiful representation of Provencal cuisine and ambiance, and exhibits old world style and charm. Menu items include sweetbreads, rabbit loin, wild mushrooms and white truffle oil; thyme roasted monkfish with bouillabaisse broth, manilla clams and aioli; a wood oven roasted whitefish with Baux de Provence olive oil and grey salt; and an oven roasted whole dungeness crab with calabria chilies, garlic, basil and orange zest.
The establishment has started well, but a grade awaits a six month trial.
PIATTI
6480 Washington St.
Yountville
944-2070
We have always enjoyed the Northern Italian dishes and available Italian wines served at Piatti, especially on the lovely patio. Service is friendly, and the cost is less than many competitors. If there is a negative, it's the lack of uniqueness here - a very staid place. But sometimes that's what the winemaker ordered.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B-
PINOT BLANC
641 Main St.
St. Helena
963-6191
Locals will tell you Pinot Blanc has one of the nicest bars in town for both cocktails and wine. We can tell you about the Mediterranean pizzazz added to what has always been quality California cuisine. We loved the lamb tartare with truffles, and the pan seared grouper with thyme braised chanterelles and grilled scallions. The romantic room, with a stone fireplace, is a plus. If you haven't been to Pinot Blanc for a while, it's time to enjoy it again.
Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: A-
RUTHERFORD GRILL
1180 Rutherford Rd.
Rutherford
963-1792
If there is one place that no visitor should miss (locals don't), it is Rutherford Grill. Priced to please any budget, this Napa Valley institution is home to more winemakers and winery people than you can count in the late afternoon and early evening, especially on Fridays. The Grill is always crowded, friendly, and full of people who know each other. The wine list here not only rivals most in the Valley, we know of nowhere that offers better selections by the glass, or better prices for glass or bottle. And the food is superb. If ostrich is on the menu, you must try it, but we also like the usually offered lamb, the prime rib sandwich, the rotisserie chicken, or any of the other so called comfort foods. Feel free to dine at the bar that is the focal point of the room. The food is the same as in a booth, and, if you are outgoing, you'll meet some interesting people.
Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A+
SODA CANYON STORE
4006 Silverado Trail
Napa
252-0285
When you need a relatively quick lunch or other "general store" goods on the southern part of the Silverado Trail, you don't have many (if any) options. Fortunately, Soda Canyon Store has been remodeled, and the young ladies who own it have done a nice job. The gleaming hardwood counter tops and paneled walls give a nice counterpoint to the shiny glass and stainless steel. The store now offers excellent made to order sandwiches , as well as local wines which you can enjoy inside or, if you get there first, at one of the two picnic tables outside. Salads and prepared foods are there too. A good stop as you begin your way up the Silverado Trail, or at mid-day so you can stay in the neighborhood.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B
SUSHI MAMBO
1015 Combs St.
Napa
257-6604
Sushi with a bit of a twist. The rolls include wine country ingredients and are somewhat unique. The fish is fresh and, as far as we know, this is the only sushi restaurant in the Valley.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B
TAYLOR'S REFRESHER
933 Main St.
St. Helena
963-3486
This may be the most unique place to dine in the country. Frequented by locals and those who really know Napa, Taylor's atmosphere is a throwback to the 50's (even though it was remodeled in the 90's). You order from a window, take a seat at a covered picnic table, and wait for your name to be called. What sets this legendary establishment apart is the menu. Yes, normal drive-in food is available (and it’s excellent - try the juicy burgers), but you might also choose fish tacos, crawfish, or the best ahi burger anywhere. It just depends what is on the menu that day. Shakes are wonderful, too, and the flavors are quite eclectic. Finally, truly nice wines can be ordered - some by the glass and some by the half bottle. Hint: it's usually crowded, so if you call ahead, you can go straight to the pick up window and avoid the lines. Don't visit Napa without trying Taylor's.
Food Rating: A+ Overall Rating: A
TERRA
1345 Railroad Ave.
St. Helena
963-8931
Terra is the favorite of many who live in, or travel to, the Valley, and deservedly so. We think it easily wins all accolades for light, sophisticated, and delicious cuisine. No one uses fresh ingredients with subtle Asian infusions better than chef/ owners Lissa Doumani and Hiro Sone (Hiro was named 2003 Chef of the Year by the James Beard Foundaton), and maitre d/sommelier Tim Mosher is one of the best at his craft, always able to recommend some new boutique wine of excellence. In only one other Napa restaurant do we always discuss our wine selections with the sommelier as we do with Tim.
Though the menu changes every evening to some degree, some of our favorite dishes include the lobster in an oyster mushroom lobster sauce with spinach and tarragon; sweet corn bisque with clams and summer squash; broiled sake marinated black cod and shrimp dumplings in Shiso broth; grilled squab on sweet corn and chanterelle mushroom risotto with foie gras sauce; the veal steak; and the sweet breads. If the word superb ever applies to food, it does here.
Food Rating: A+ Overall Rating: A+
TRA VIGNE
1050 Charter Oak
St. Helena
963-4444
A legend in the Napa Valley, and the recipient of many awards from many critics, we believe Tra Vigne to be highly overrated in most respects. In fact, when we read guide books and reviews, we can't believe they are describing the same restaurant where we have dined many times. The service is lacking for non-locals, and, while it is in fact friendly when locals are involved, it is not professional. If you aren't with "somebody," your chance of a good table or an honored reservation is not great. Despite food raves everywhere you look in the books, it is relatively ordinary Italian cuisine. But there is no denying it is a popular stop in the Valley. However, we think your money is better spent elsewhere.
Food Rating: B- Overall Rating: B-
TRIPLE S RANCH
4600 Mountain Ranch Rd.
Calistoga
942-6730
You probably have not heard of this retro place. It is in very few guidebooks and perhaps is best described as a rustic hotel bar/restaurant that hasn't changed in 35 years. It is also up in the mountains a few miles from civilization, and hard to get to. Nevertheless, if you want to eat where jeans are considered dressing up, where the price of a steak includes salad or soup, a non alcoholic beverage, and dessert, and where people are people, this is it. Oh, the food isn't bad either.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B
TUSCANY
1005 First St.
Napa
258-1000
Tuscany is a casual and affordable restaurant with some Italian core dishes (including some creative pastas), but its special preparations (duck, rabbit, and veal) are really the stars. We would identify the style of cuisine more as Californian with Italian influences than we would Italian, but the dacor is clearly reminiscent of many European cities, and Tuscany in particular. The Italian wines on the list are often good buys and worth a try.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B
VILLA ROMANO
1011 Soscol Ferry Rd.
Napa
252-4533
Built as a stage stop in 1855, the two story Villa Romano offers a wine list of over 150 different labels to compliment its well prepared Northern Italian dishes. A fireplace, romantic candlelight dining, and a warm décor help give you the feeling that you are in a private home. While you won't see many dishes on the menu you haven't seen before, they are prepared with care and passion by the chef/owner, served by a friendly staff, and are flavorful enough that they should well satisfy a search for good Italian cuisine in the Valley. Once a month Villa Romano sponsors a wine dinner, so inquire about that when making reservations.
Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: B+
WAPPO BAR & BISTRO
1226 Washington St.
Calistoga
942-4712
This is a very interesting and almost daring restaurant. It defies any sort of classification, as it offers dishes from many global cultures, as well as intricate combinations of foods. How about, for example, Tandoori style chicken; Brazilian seafood stew; Thai coconut curry; New York steak; or Ecuadorian braised pork. Given that we love innovation, the same factors that make Wappo unique also cause our only problems. Firstly, there just is no chef that can prepare extraordinary food of every nation. The Tandoori chicken may taste good, but not taste like Tandoori chicken should taste. Secondly, some of the infusions don't work. On the other hand, much of what is served is great. So what you get here is a place with an almost self imposed lack of consistency. What is always consistent, however, is a creative wine list with minimum mark ups. Wappo is a good time, and worth a "risk."
Food Rating: A to C- Overall Rating: A- to C+
WINE SPECTATOR GREYSTONE
(see CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA)
ZUZU
829 Main St.
Napa
224-8555
Zuzu is a late night Mediterranean tapas bar in downtown Napa, and a worthy place to sample various small plates of well thought out, creative dishes. We like the service in this small but hip restaurant almost as much as we like the marriage of many flavors.
The first thing many people notice about wine country dining is the freshness of every ingredient. And why not, with the world's breadbasket of fruits and veggies on one side and an ocean on the other? With this base from which to choose, it would be a tragedy if the food was not terrific. Fortunately, you won't dine much better or with much more consistency anywhere, and most of the Napa restaurants (unless ethnic) prepare their food in the California style.
As to ethnic dining, you won't find much in the way of ethnic restaurants (a few good ones here and there - mostly Italian), but that is because the chefs here are understandably creating dishes that accompany some of the finest wine in the world.
A word about the wine. It is quite routine for even average restaurants and sandwich shops to have great selections of wine, so it would be monotonous for us to praise the wine list in each review. What we will do is mention the wine service in those restaurants that are extraordinary (on the positive or negative side).
One further tip. You will be visiting wineries all day and will often want to drink a bottle that you purchased. No problem in Napa Valley - the restaurants expect it. Most do charge a fair corkage fee, however, so you should expect it. We always think that if you dine with more than two (and sometimes just a couple), if you bring a bottle, buy a bottle.
And a last hint. If you dine in Calistoga, which is the warmest part of the Valley anyway, the area near the windows on the south side of Lincoln Avenue can be quite warm and bright while the sun is setting in the summer. Fair warning. Don't stay away from the restaurant, just ask for a cooler table.
ALL SEASONS
1400 Lincoln Ave.
Calistoga
942-9111
Mostly frequented by locals, the real treat here is not so much the food, which is good but not stellar, but the unique wine store in the back of the restaurant. The wine shop, not surprisingly, carries a fine selection of Napa and Sonoma wines, but it is the only place in the Valley (to our knowledge) that stocks fine Italian AND French wines (Bordeaux and Burgundy especially). As you dine, you have a choice of drinking from the wine list or from the store, and if you choose the latter, a reasonable corkage fee will be added on. The fine wines here are a nice accompaniment to hearty American dishes.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B+
ANGELE
540 Main St.
Napa
252-8115
A French bistro on the banks of the Napa River, the combination of affable staff, solid California/French dishes, and a pretty setting serve to make Angele a popular stop. We enjoyed the food here, but the ambiance and lively atmosphere are the selling points. Know what's really great here? The good ole American burger, and sometimes that's the perfect food after a day of visiting wineries.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B+
AUBERGE DU SOLEIL
180 Rutherford Hill Rd.
Rutherford
963-1211
For elegant dining plus a view, no restaurant in the Valley compares to Auberge Du Soleil, located at the top of a hill off Silverado Trail. We recommend taking some time for either lunch or dinner and relaxing on the porch surrounding the dining room, or even in the bar. Both areas provide top shelf cocktails, great wines, and stunning panoramas.
But the view is terrific from the restaurant too, as is the wonderful California cuisine served up by Chef Richard Reddington, who improves the experience each time we go. The menu is set up to be a tasting menu, but the restaurant allows you to also dine a la carte. That is appreciated. A bonus - wonderful wine list. It isn't surprising that Auberge is the choice of many of the vintners in the Valley when they want to experience a special evening.
Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: A
BISTRO DON GIOVANNI
4110 St. Helena Highway
Napa
224-3300
You want crowded and noisy to go along with good food? This is your place. Freshness is the watchword here - we love the sauces and fish, as well as dishes like pasta with lamb, artichokes, and roasted tomatoes; and the duck breast served on risotto with apples and chipoline onions. Much of the menu, including terrific veggies, is grilled on mesquite, a process that imparts some nice flavors that compliment the natural fragrances. It's a pleasure to have an almost rustic, Tuscan style dining room in the Valley. Giovanni's is not the best food in Napa, as some claim, but it rates highly.
Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: A-
BISTRO JEANTY
6510 Washington St.
Yountville
944-0103
If there is a more popular neighborhood type bistro in the Napa area, we don't know about it. Famed chef Philippe Jeanty, who developed his unique style in France and then at Chandon in the Valley, decided in 1997 to create a bistro where he could recreate all those favorite foods of his childhood. The doors of Bistro Jeanty opened in April of 1998.
Not one of our favorite restaurants in its early days (we felt the service was average, the menu limited, and the wine list poor), Jeanty has advanced in leaps and bounds to become both trendy and a gastronomic winner. The wine list now features a diverse selection of outstanding examples of France, Napa, and Sonoma, and the food (with a nicely expanded menu) remains eclectic and tasty. You may wish to try the beet and mache salad with feta cheese; the duck and goat cheese pate; rabbit pate with mustard celery root; lamb tongue and potato salad; sole meuniere; Coq au Vin (chicken, mushroom, and bacon red wine stew); beef stew; various cassoulets; duck confit; and steak tartare.
Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: A-
BOMBAY BISTRO
1106 First St.
Napa
253-9375
Perhaps the only Indian restaurant in Napa, Bombay Bistro prepares meals in a light style without losing the magical flavors of the Indian spices and herbs. If you are not familiar with Indian restaurants, they offer much more than simple curries. Here, for example, the grilled meats and fish (called Tandoori) are spiced perfectly, and the cool yogurt or cream based sauces surround meats or vegetables and bring out its flavor. The owners have invested in a nice wine store right next door, so choose from the menu or the store (if the latter, a fair corkage charge is added to the bill).
Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: B
BOUCHON
6534 Washington St.
Yountville
944-8037
This is a fun French bistro. In fact, though Bouchon means "cork" in French, it is also a term in France meaning bistro. The striking bar, attractive room, fresh raw seafood, well conceived wine list, and late hours all combine to make Bouchon enormously popular with those in the wine industry, as well as diners in the know. It's a place to meet people after 10:00 p.m.. We think the food is fine - quite simple as a Bouchon should be - but nicely prepared with lots of options.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: A-
BRANNAN'S
1374 Lincoln Ave.
Calistoga
942-2233
After some changes in the kitchen, this beautifully restored restaurant with open windows and wall murals created by acclaimed trompe l'oeil artist Carlo Marchiori (a local), should become as hot as it was when it opened in 1998. New chef Allen Routt, a Culinary Institute of America graduate, can flat out create and prepare extraordinary dishes. Some of what we tasted is not on the menu nightly, but will be included in specials. The oyster ravioli in champagne sauce was the perfect start, and nicely preceded a rare and moist oak plank salmon. For a primary entree we were served a truly unique rabbit still on the rib. What a find that was. Chef Routt just has "the touch." The bar at Brannan's makes a mean martini, and is understandably one of the most popular meeting places in Calistoga.
Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A
BRIX
7377 St. Helena Hwy.
Yountville
944-2749
One of our favorite places - we have yet to have anything but excellent and professional service, as well as some of the best prepared food anywhere. And this is so even though there have been more changes in the kitchen than one usually finds in better dining establishments. You might describe the cuisine at Brix as seasonal California. The restaurant attempts to use local produce, and adjacent to the restaurant is a seasonal garden planted with herbs and vegetables that enhance the menu.
The ultimate experience here is due in great part to the management, and a good time is enhanced by the jovial staff who will make sure you order the right amount of the night's best dishes. Trust them, but do order the ever so lightly fried calamari, some of the best anywhere, and consider the beef skewers with peanutty peanut sauce; the Ahi on crispy wonton; the pan roasted snapper with a lobster sauce; and rack of lamb with fried artichokes, baby squash, and whole grain mustard jus.
The wine list is one of the best, and there is a wine store here where you can choose your libation if you desire for a fair corkage charge. We do like it here.
Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A+
BUSTER'S BBQ
Intersection of Lincoln & Rt. 29
Calistoga
942-5605
We don't think anyplace in the country can outdo the quality and taste of Buster's BBQ. Hidden in a shack just off the main road, with seating at picnic tables, Buster prepares his meats and ribs on a huge grill outside, and serves you from a window in the building. You will select either a sandwich or a dinner made from Tritip (a popular beef cut in the West), pork loin, or ribs, with sides of slaw and baked beans. Be careful that you taste the hot sauce before allowing it to touch your tongue. For two of us we usually split a sandwich and a slab of ribs. It's enough, and it's a treat.
Food Rating: A+ Overall Rating: B+
BUTTER CREAM BAKERY & CAFE
2297 Jefferson St.
Napa
255-6700
This little place with (if you can imagine in 2003) pink and white stripes is reminiscent of an old time bakery and soda counter (they still have pink stools). Breakfasts and lunches are traditional, but the real reason to stop here is the huge selection of fresh baked goods and pastries, and the smiles from behind the counter.
Food Rating: B
Baked Goods & Pastries Rating: A+
Overall Rating: A
CELADON
500 Main St.
Napa
254-9690
Celadon, owned by Chef Greg Cole, was the first fine dining restaurant in the recently revitalized city of Napa. It has grown in scope and moved to a location more befitting its grace and style (the historic Napa Mill), but it remains a popular stop for tourists and locals alike. Chef Greg is fond of referring to his cuisine here as "global comfort food," and the seasonally changing menu features the flavors of the Mediterranean, Asia and the Americas. The Algerian style braised lamb is a wow. The wine list has received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence annually since 1997.
Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: B+
CHANDON
1 California Dr.
Yountville
944-2892
The "Granddaddy" of fine Napa dining, this elegant restaurant (Chandon is the dining room at Domaine Chandon winery) has always served good food, though it has had more than its share of turnovers. Fortunately there now seems to be a working match between the restaurant and Chef Eric Torralba, who since his arrival has worked to build kitchen camaraderie through the European tradition of dining together during staff meals, and has begun infusing his global culinary experience into the refined dining room setting.
By coincidence, we dined at Chandon the week Chef Eric arrived, and we can recall his deceleration that Chadon was through with goat cheese for a while because everyone else used it. That's why we found his quote on the Domaine Chandon website to be interesting. "Focus," he said, "on using the products around you and use common sense. Don't necessarily follow trends."
We had a marvelous dinner the evening we visited, choosing the seven course tasting menu. However, you may dine a la carte as well. Appetizers got us in the right mood when we tasted the olive oil braised artichokes and the exceptional lobster risotto with vanilla infused sweet corn reduction. The six oysters "five ways" were intriguing. Stellar entrees included the turbot with sweet corn risotto and coral butter; roast squab with seared foie gras; basil crusted lamb loin; osso bucco pappardelle with pinot noir essence; and fillet of John Dory with basil gnocchi and clam sauce.
Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A
CINDY'S BACK STREET KITCHEN
1327 Railroad Ave.
St. Helena
963-1200
After a rocky start as Miramonte (a surprise to all with the owner being chef Cindy Pawlcyn), Cindy's PR team must have been smart enough to not only revamp the restaurant, but it's name as well. Thus, Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen was born and seems to be doing quite well, though the service is still a little suspect.
Located in a 150 year old building on Railroad Ave., the charm is certainly there, and, let's face it, Cindy knows how to cook. The menu is now mostly regional cuisine with just a few southwestern touches, and maybe a splash or two of Asian influences. Our flatbread with cheese, smoked heirloom tomatoes, roasted corn, and basil was superb, as were the Chipotle rubbed quail with balsamic jus, the roasted artichoke with lemon-caper aioli, and the duck burger with shiitake mushroom ketchup. Other very enticing menu selections include chicken with relleno, corn and salsa; wild mushroom tamales with grits and chard; short ribs; and curried chicken with sugar snaps, butter lettuce, and crispy bacon.
Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: B+
COLE'S CHOP HOUSE
1122 Main St.
Napa
224-6328
Napa Valley is without many of the fine dining chain restaurants you find in other areas of dining renown. To this we say "Hurrrah," as the absence of these giants allows independent chefs to practice their trade. With this in mind, Greg Cole ambitiously opened the Valley's only restaurant devoted to steaks and chops (this does not imply many other restaurants cannot prepare superb steaks - they can and do). The restaurant itself is spacious and stunning in design, and it's hard to secure a reservation on the patio as well. As with most steak houses today, everything here is a la carte, and that makes your meal relatively expensive. Add a good, but also expensive, wine list, and an evening here can cost some money. But the prices are fair for this type food, for a nice wine inventory, and for friendly service.
Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: A-
COMPADRES GRILL
6539 Washington St.
Yountville
944-0103
Even in wine country, sometimes you want something other than wine. Well, if your choice is a margarita and very good Mexican food, many locals will tell you that the best one around is served here at Compadres. Atmosphere here is lively. Food is good. Prices are gentle.
Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: B
CUCINA A LA CARTE
6525 Washington St.
Yountville
944-1600
Open a little over a year as of this writing, almost all great western cuisines are represented over a period of time (in fact, the Chef may want to concentrate a bit more in one area). Most every dish, from bread to pasta, is made in house, yet the food lacks a certain ambition. Also, we aren't fond of dining on paper plates with regular flatware (a strange combination). Cheese selections are good, but the wine list is a bit short.
Food Rating: B- Overall Rating: C+
CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA
(sometimes referred to as Wine Spectator Greystone CIA)
2555 Main St.
St. Helena
967-1010
It may be a good thing that some people stay away from the CIA thinking it is only a training school for chefs. The restaurant is crowded enough. In reality, though, the training area is separate from the superb dining room, which easily ranks in the Valley's top 10.
Housed in the former Christian Brothers Winery,the CIA includes museums, gift shops, exhibits, culinary conference and teaching areas, and a new and exciting wine study building. Yet the restaurant is not overshadowed at all. The restaurant creates some of most innovative classic California dishes in America, and the wine list is arguably the finest in Napa. In fact, the Institute has a program where second generation winemakers are bottling special wine under their wineries names to raise money. These wines can be purchased and enjoyed at dinner for ridiculously low prices. The cavernous dining room (which is a bit loud - it's in an old stone building after all) surrounds numerous chefs preparing various dishes, each of which will challenge your palate. The servers are uniformly knowledgeable, friendly, and efficient. What more can you want? This is a real wine country experience.
Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A+
DEAN & DELUCA MARKET
607 S. St. Helena Hwy.
St. Helena
967-9980
Not a place to sit for a meal, but deserving of inclusion here because buying lunch to enjoy outside at a winery is an almost inescapable pastime in the Valley. At D & D you can find whatever you want, from pre-prepared meats to an incredible selection of cheeses and sandwiches, and from gourmet desserts to perhaps the largest selection of California wine anywhere. This store has produce, food products and cookware. Even if you aren't buying, you should still browse through the store and taste all the samples. Someday they'll get you back. A one of a kind place.
Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A+
DOMAINE CHANDON (see Chandon)
DON GIOVANNI (see Bistro Don Giovanni)
FOOTHILL CAFE
2766 Old Sonoma Rd.
Napa
252-6178
This is a small room (seats about 40) that is not well known at all - well, it wasn't until some big city reviews. Now it is a popular place with locals (including some wine industry people), and becoming more sought out by visitors. Truth be told, the food is pretty good (not great) and the service is average (nice but not special), but a well conceived wine list and whimsical ambiances added to the cool clientele elevates the overall experience. Comfort food, especially steak, pasta, and garlic mashed potatoes is the watchword.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B+
FLATIRON GRILL
1440 Lincoln Ave.
Calistoga
942-1220
When you want to be ultra casual, yet would like some fine wine and food, there aren't many places you can visit in Calistoga. But Calistoga will remind you of an old cowboy town, and people are more casual there than in the rest of the Valley. It's also hotter there (see Introduction). The newest restaurant earning kudos is Flatiron, an attractive dining room and bar that serves what can only be called comfort food. But they do it very well, and thoughtfully offer what might be our favorite wine list, and a global beer list. In fact, service is fine all around.
Just a glance at the menu tells you what you are in for, except it doesn't speak to the uniformly outstanding preparation. The appetizers include fried calamari, simple salads, sauteed mussels, and onion rings. Entrees can be selected from steak, prime rib, brisket, grilled chicken, seafood pasta, etc. The sides are pure childhood home: French fries, mac & cheese, garlic mashed potatoes, sauteed mushroom and onions, or potatoes gratin. A fun evening of memories can be had at Flatiron (a root beer float for dessert?).
Food Rating: A Overall Rating: B+
FRENCH LAUNDRY (Temporarily Closed, 2004)
6640 Washington St.
Yountville
944-2380
To most, this is Napa Valley's most famous, and penultimate, restaurant. It certainly is the most expensive, the most difficult place to get a reservation, the home of the world's highest (and, ridiculous) corkage charge, and the seat of pretentious service. This is not to say that the flair of Chef Thomas Keller is not wonderful, or that the food is less than stratospheric in its excellence. But for us, there has to be more than food. You have to feel not only as if the restaurant owners want you and the servers care you are there, but also you want to leave thinking the entire dining experience was "worth it." If the price is too high, the corkage charge unreasonable, and the reservation policy a pain, it's hard to feel satisfied no matter the brilliance of the dishes.
Make no mistake. French Laundry has won almost every award or rave in the world. And the food merits those accolades. So if that's what you want, by all means don't miss the chance (if you can get in).
Food Rating: A+ Overall Rating: B+
FUME BISTRO
4050 Byway East
Napa
257-1999
Fume Bistro, warm and inviting, has become a local favorite in just a short time. Cocktails are good, the carefully chosen wine list is price friendly, and the servers are people friendly. If you are in the mood for pizzas, there is a wood fired oven. If you want appetizers, choose from one of a number, such as duck confit, spring rolls, crab cakes, roasted mussels or crispy calamari Salads are good, and soups (especially the potato leek) are terrific. Entrees include excellent Kobe beef, lamb, fresh seafood, chicken, and pasta. Save room for the exceptional homemade desserts, primarily the creme brulee and the lemon-blueberry bread pudding.
Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: A-
GREEN VALLEY CAFE
1310 Main St.
St. Helena
963-7088
It always surprises us as to how many locals are not familiar with this Northern Italian trattoria, even though it is in the middle of Main Street in trendy St. Helena. People just walk right by. And if the locals don't know about it, think about the tourists. Well, the lasagna's out of the bag, so here we go.
What you will primarily find in this unobtrusive small room is superb Italian cuisine - the best in Napa Valley. Yes, the clientele mostly know each other, and the servers are friendly, but the food's the thing. Don't miss the calamari, and check the blackboard for specials. For a real treat, have a steak (no kidding) surrounded by pasta and meat sauce, but whatever you have will raise your spirits, and you'll raise yours to the chef.
Food Rating: A+ Overall Rating: A
HURLEY'S
6518 Washington St.
Yountville
944-2345
Hurley's benefits from the local popularity of its owner, plus the location (location, location). The restaurant is in the middle of late night Yountville where the two main streets connect, and serves a regional menu for dinner, as well as a late night bar menu. Stunning glass doors open to the patio from the bar, and the dining room is bathed in warm colors. Neither the menu, itself, nor the wine list, are overly exciting, but the menu does have something for everyone - steak, seafood, and sometimes game (usually a fowl). Service is certainly fun and friendly.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B+
HYDRO BAR & GRILL
1403 Lincoln Ave.
Calistoga
942-9777
Hydro, which is really a bar with food, has one distinction that puts it on our list. We believe it is the only place in the Valley north of Yountville to find a hearty selection of food after 11:00 p.m. There is nothing remarkable about the decor (brick walls and hardwood floor) or the food. But it's there and can satisfy a yen.
Food Rating: C Overall Rating: B-
JULIA'S KITCHEN
COPIA
500 First St.
Napa
265-5700
We included Julia's because Sallys-Place is a comprehensive review site. However, there have been so many changes, and there are so many varied opinions about this restaurant, that any grade would be misleading. It is worthy of note that it was selected Restaurant of the Year in 2002 by Esquire Magazine, but at present that rating would seem high.
LA LUNA MARKET
1153 Rutherford Rd.
Rutherford
963-3211
You can't eat inside, but there is no place to find more authentic Mexican ingredients in the Valley, nor are you ever likely to experience anything quite like the burritos served at the food counter in the back of the store. If we told you that they weigh a pound or more, we are not exaggerating, and you choose the meats, beans, and spices that are included. One burrito feeds three, and it's worth a stop here at least one time per trip to fill up for a lunch picnic. Have some Tums handy, and don't plan dinner for that night.
Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A
LA TOQUE
1140 Rutherford Rd.
Rutherford
963-9770
One of the places we go out of our way to recommend is La Toque. Chef/owner Ken Frank and elegant front of the house manager Julia Wilson are always on hand to be certain that the diner's experience is a memorable one, and they almost always succeed. From the moment you are greeted by Julia with a glass of champagne, to the presentation of desserts somewhere between two and four hours later (dependent on the numbers dining, your drinking preferences, and your desire to relax), you feel as if you are royalty. We think this is Napa's number one dining experience. From service to food to wine to ambiance, all is perfect.
La Toque features a prix fix menu that changes weekly. You may select your wine from an extensive list, or decide to have the pairings of the evening. Either way, and no matter how well you know wine, we suggest you consult, and have a discussion with, sommelier Scott Tracy - we always do (and frequently learn something).
Perusing a menu is a fitting end of the review (you would choose one from each course):
Duffy's Early Girl Tomato Soup served Chilled with "Brunoise" of Panzanella
Diced Montauk Bluefin Tuna with Yukon Gold Potatoes and Sauce Verte
__________
New England Spotted Skate Wing with Zante Currants and Brown Butter
Olive Oil Poached Pacific Halibut with Marjoram and Manila Clams
__________
Seared Artisan Foie Gras with Fresh Corn Polenta and Chanterelles
Roasted Oregon Quail with Port and Green Peppercorns
__________
Wild Atlantic Striped Bass with Lobster Cabernet Sauce
Niman Ranch Rib Roast with it's own "Hachis Parmentier"
Pappardelle with Garlic Roasted Rocky Mountain Porcini
__________
Selection of Ripe Cheese with Walnut Bread
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Sauteed Hamada Farms Peaches with an Almond "Twinkle"
Warm Chocolate Hazelnut Tart with Toasted Hazelnut Ice Cream
Food Rating: A+ Overall Rating: A+
MARKET
1347 Main St.
St. Helena
963-3799
Market capitalizes on the trend toward comfort foods. To that end they offer dishes like meat loaf, fried chicken, etc., in a semi upscale setting. The food is "OK," the wine list not as good as it should be, and the service needs some work. If you are staying in St. Helena, this is a nice stop, but not worth a special trip.
MARTINI HOUSE
1245 Spring St.
St. Helena
963-2233
This is one of the hottest places in Napa, and a place to be seen. Restaurateur Pat Kuleto and Executive Chef Todd Humphries have created a sophisticated restaurant offering "the whole package." Ambiance? Fireplaces in three rooms compliment the dark woods in the semi formal main dining, there are light fixtures evocative of woven Indian baskets and acorns, and an open staircase descends into the casual Wine Cellar bar. If you prefer outside dining, enjoy the lawn where you will dine beneath vine-covered arbors and trellises. Service? As professional as any in Napa. Food? If Chef Humphries is involved, it's good. Here he has created a "Napa Cuisine" menu incorporating local produce and foods, including farm-raised meats and wild game.
An example of a few dishes will bring home the excellence. You might enjoy the sauteed foie gras with a golden raisin sauce; olive oil marinated Monterey Bay anchovies; roasted Sonoma duck breast with cherries in a hibiscus sauce; sauteed day boat sea scallops with saffron gnocchi, sauteed chanterelles and summer truffle sauce; pan roasted wild striped bass; and chilled poached ruby red prawns with ginger salad of organic melon and sea beans with lime vinaigrette. Ask for a wine recommendation by the glass, or from an extraordinary list.
Food Rating: A- Overall Rating: A
MIRAMONTE (see Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen)
MUSTARDS GRILL
7399 St. Helena Hwy.
Yountville
944-2424
Long a Napa Valley tradition among locals, celebrity chef Cindy Pawlcyn continues to turn out well prepared fresh fish, lamb, and pork. Visitors now are a major part of the clientele. We have never been as enamored with Mustards as are many writers, and it may be because we became regulars in the Valley long after the restaurant's reputation had been earned. We were, therefore, able to more dispassionately give an opinion. Mustards is good, but there are many better.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B
NEST CAFE
7787 St. Helena Hwy.
Oakville
944-0206
Apparently designed to compete with Oakville Grocery, Nest has a long way to go. You can dine on premises here, but you still have to order at a counter and then get your own utensils. The dining areas are unattractive and hot. Add that to an only fair wine selection (no excuse in Napa) and average food, and you have an average business.
Food Rating: C+ Overall Rating: C-
OAKVILLE GROCERY
7856 St. Helena Hwy.
Oakville
944-8802
The King of all sandwich and gourmet food shops. You don't eat here, but order gourmet sandwiches (hot and cold) of every kind. "The Grocery," as it is known, is always crowded, yet turns out orders quite quickly. The place is a "happening" in and of itself, and the food is superb. A nice wine selection is on premises.
Food Rating: A+ Overall Rating: A+
PALISADES MARKET
1506 Lincoln Ave.
Calistoga
942-9549
We are always thankful for this outstanding gourmet food, wine, sandwich, and specialty shop located in the northern part of the Valley. It's hard to find a quick meal of quality in Calistoga, but Palisades always comes through. Don't let the unassuming building deter you. While you wait for your order inside, peruse the olive oils, bakery goods, cheeses, chutneys, and salads. A great place.
Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A
PERE JEANTY
6725 Washington St.
Yountville
945-1000
The newest restaurant of famed Philippe Jeanty, this charming establishment can be found just a few blocks from Bistro Jeanty in Yountville. Pere Jeanty is a beautiful representation of Provencal cuisine and ambiance, and exhibits old world style and charm. Menu items include sweetbreads, rabbit loin, wild mushrooms and white truffle oil; thyme roasted monkfish with bouillabaisse broth, manilla clams and aioli; a wood oven roasted whitefish with Baux de Provence olive oil and grey salt; and an oven roasted whole dungeness crab with calabria chilies, garlic, basil and orange zest.
The establishment has started well, but a grade awaits a six month trial.
PIATTI
6480 Washington St.
Yountville
944-2070
We have always enjoyed the Northern Italian dishes and available Italian wines served at Piatti, especially on the lovely patio. Service is friendly, and the cost is less than many competitors. If there is a negative, it's the lack of uniqueness here - a very staid place. But sometimes that's what the winemaker ordered.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B-
PINOT BLANC
641 Main St.
St. Helena
963-6191
Locals will tell you Pinot Blanc has one of the nicest bars in town for both cocktails and wine. We can tell you about the Mediterranean pizzazz added to what has always been quality California cuisine. We loved the lamb tartare with truffles, and the pan seared grouper with thyme braised chanterelles and grilled scallions. The romantic room, with a stone fireplace, is a plus. If you haven't been to Pinot Blanc for a while, it's time to enjoy it again.
Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: A-
RUTHERFORD GRILL
1180 Rutherford Rd.
Rutherford
963-1792
If there is one place that no visitor should miss (locals don't), it is Rutherford Grill. Priced to please any budget, this Napa Valley institution is home to more winemakers and winery people than you can count in the late afternoon and early evening, especially on Fridays. The Grill is always crowded, friendly, and full of people who know each other. The wine list here not only rivals most in the Valley, we know of nowhere that offers better selections by the glass, or better prices for glass or bottle. And the food is superb. If ostrich is on the menu, you must try it, but we also like the usually offered lamb, the prime rib sandwich, the rotisserie chicken, or any of the other so called comfort foods. Feel free to dine at the bar that is the focal point of the room. The food is the same as in a booth, and, if you are outgoing, you'll meet some interesting people.
Food Rating: A Overall Rating: A+
SODA CANYON STORE
4006 Silverado Trail
Napa
252-0285
When you need a relatively quick lunch or other "general store" goods on the southern part of the Silverado Trail, you don't have many (if any) options. Fortunately, Soda Canyon Store has been remodeled, and the young ladies who own it have done a nice job. The gleaming hardwood counter tops and paneled walls give a nice counterpoint to the shiny glass and stainless steel. The store now offers excellent made to order sandwiches , as well as local wines which you can enjoy inside or, if you get there first, at one of the two picnic tables outside. Salads and prepared foods are there too. A good stop as you begin your way up the Silverado Trail, or at mid-day so you can stay in the neighborhood.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B
SUSHI MAMBO
1015 Combs St.
Napa
257-6604
Sushi with a bit of a twist. The rolls include wine country ingredients and are somewhat unique. The fish is fresh and, as far as we know, this is the only sushi restaurant in the Valley.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B
TAYLOR'S REFRESHER
933 Main St.
St. Helena
963-3486
This may be the most unique place to dine in the country. Frequented by locals and those who really know Napa, Taylor's atmosphere is a throwback to the 50's (even though it was remodeled in the 90's). You order from a window, take a seat at a covered picnic table, and wait for your name to be called. What sets this legendary establishment apart is the menu. Yes, normal drive-in food is available (and it’s excellent - try the juicy burgers), but you might also choose fish tacos, crawfish, or the best ahi burger anywhere. It just depends what is on the menu that day. Shakes are wonderful, too, and the flavors are quite eclectic. Finally, truly nice wines can be ordered - some by the glass and some by the half bottle. Hint: it's usually crowded, so if you call ahead, you can go straight to the pick up window and avoid the lines. Don't visit Napa without trying Taylor's.
Food Rating: A+ Overall Rating: A
TERRA
1345 Railroad Ave.
St. Helena
963-8931
Terra is the favorite of many who live in, or travel to, the Valley, and deservedly so. We think it easily wins all accolades for light, sophisticated, and delicious cuisine. No one uses fresh ingredients with subtle Asian infusions better than chef/ owners Lissa Doumani and Hiro Sone (Hiro was named 2003 Chef of the Year by the James Beard Foundaton), and maitre d/sommelier Tim Mosher is one of the best at his craft, always able to recommend some new boutique wine of excellence. In only one other Napa restaurant do we always discuss our wine selections with the sommelier as we do with Tim.
Though the menu changes every evening to some degree, some of our favorite dishes include the lobster in an oyster mushroom lobster sauce with spinach and tarragon; sweet corn bisque with clams and summer squash; broiled sake marinated black cod and shrimp dumplings in Shiso broth; grilled squab on sweet corn and chanterelle mushroom risotto with foie gras sauce; the veal steak; and the sweet breads. If the word superb ever applies to food, it does here.
Food Rating: A+ Overall Rating: A+
TRA VIGNE
1050 Charter Oak
St. Helena
963-4444
A legend in the Napa Valley, and the recipient of many awards from many critics, we believe Tra Vigne to be highly overrated in most respects. In fact, when we read guide books and reviews, we can't believe they are describing the same restaurant where we have dined many times. The service is lacking for non-locals, and, while it is in fact friendly when locals are involved, it is not professional. If you aren't with "somebody," your chance of a good table or an honored reservation is not great. Despite food raves everywhere you look in the books, it is relatively ordinary Italian cuisine. But there is no denying it is a popular stop in the Valley. However, we think your money is better spent elsewhere.
Food Rating: B- Overall Rating: B-
TRIPLE S RANCH
4600 Mountain Ranch Rd.
Calistoga
942-6730
You probably have not heard of this retro place. It is in very few guidebooks and perhaps is best described as a rustic hotel bar/restaurant that hasn't changed in 35 years. It is also up in the mountains a few miles from civilization, and hard to get to. Nevertheless, if you want to eat where jeans are considered dressing up, where the price of a steak includes salad or soup, a non alcoholic beverage, and dessert, and where people are people, this is it. Oh, the food isn't bad either.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B
TUSCANY
1005 First St.
Napa
258-1000
Tuscany is a casual and affordable restaurant with some Italian core dishes (including some creative pastas), but its special preparations (duck, rabbit, and veal) are really the stars. We would identify the style of cuisine more as Californian with Italian influences than we would Italian, but the dacor is clearly reminiscent of many European cities, and Tuscany in particular. The Italian wines on the list are often good buys and worth a try.
Food Rating: B Overall Rating: B
VILLA ROMANO
1011 Soscol Ferry Rd.
Napa
252-4533
Built as a stage stop in 1855, the two story Villa Romano offers a wine list of over 150 different labels to compliment its well prepared Northern Italian dishes. A fireplace, romantic candlelight dining, and a warm décor help give you the feeling that you are in a private home. While you won't see many dishes on the menu you haven't seen before, they are prepared with care and passion by the chef/owner, served by a friendly staff, and are flavorful enough that they should well satisfy a search for good Italian cuisine in the Valley. Once a month Villa Romano sponsors a wine dinner, so inquire about that when making reservations.
Food Rating: B+ Overall Rating: B+
WAPPO BAR & BISTRO
1226 Washington St.
Calistoga
942-4712
This is a very interesting and almost daring restaurant. It defies any sort of classification, as it offers dishes from many global cultures, as well as intricate combinations of foods. How about, for example, Tandoori style chicken; Brazilian seafood stew; Thai coconut curry; New York steak; or Ecuadorian braised pork. Given that we love innovation, the same factors that make Wappo unique also cause our only problems. Firstly, there just is no chef that can prepare extraordinary food of every nation. The Tandoori chicken may taste good, but not taste like Tandoori chicken should taste. Secondly, some of the infusions don't work. On the other hand, much of what is served is great. So what you get here is a place with an almost self imposed lack of consistency. What is always consistent, however, is a creative wine list with minimum mark ups. Wappo is a good time, and worth a "risk."
Food Rating: A to C- Overall Rating: A- to C+
WINE SPECTATOR GREYSTONE
(see CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA)
ZUZU
829 Main St.
Napa
224-8555
Zuzu is a late night Mediterranean tapas bar in downtown Napa, and a worthy place to sample various small plates of well thought out, creative dishes. We like the service in this small but hip restaurant almost as much as we like the marriage of many flavors.
posted by www.4rentinSanfrancisco.com at 8:29 AM
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